How to Use a Gel Stain to Finish a Cabinet

RON HAZELTON:
I picked up this cabinet at a flea market a few days ago. Now, while it is fairly simple, I think it could be really nice in a bathroom, some place to put towels, washcloths, soap or whatever. But it does need a bit of sprucing up.

Now the first thing I'm going to want to deal with is getting rid of these black marks right here and right here. The marks have been made from water that has come into contact with this steel hardware. The black is actually iron oxide.

To remove it, I'm pouring a quart of hot water into this container into which I'm adding a heaping tablespoon of powdered bleach called oxalic acid. It's available at most paint and hardware stores. After stirring it thoroughly, I brush the solution on the door frets, saturating the wood.
[MUSIC]
As the mixture dries, the stains become lighter and lighter until they're virtually gone. For sanding, I'll first use a 120-grit paper. With my sandpaper cutter, I divide full sheets into quarters — and then fold each quarter into thirds.

When it comes to sanding, it's important to always move the sandpaper in the same direction as the grain. Next, I wipe off the sanding dust with a soft cloth. On the side of the case, there's a compression scratch. Now this is caused by some object that crushed the wood fibers rather than gouging them away.

I can remove this mark by soaking a cloth in water, wringing out the excess, laying the damp cloth over the scratch, then setting an iron on top, creating steam. The steam expands the crushed fibers and eventually eliminates the mark.

Next, I do a second sanding, using finer 220-grit sandpaper. A faster way to sand larger flat surfaces like this is by using an electric orbital or palm sander.
[VERY LOUD SANDING SOUNDS IN BACKGROUND]
The top edges of this little stand seem a bit unfinished to me, so I've decided to add some strips of decorative wood trim.

I cut 45-degree miters on the ends and attach the trim with small brads and a finish nailer. Finally, I set any nails below the surface and apply a cellulose wood filler to conceal the holes.

Well, we've removed the stains from the drawer fronts, gotten rid of some dents and scratches on the sides, given everything an overall sanding and added a nice piece of detail here on the edge. So I'd say we're ready for finishing.

The gel stain I'm using for this project needs a good stirring to thoroughly distribute the color pigments. Once I'm satisfied, I pour a portion of the stain into a one-quart plastic container. The container makes it easier to dip the brush in the material, then slap it gently on the sides to remove any excess.

I brush on the stain in the direction of the wood grain. On vertical surfaces like the sides, the gel consistency keeps the stain from running and dripping. After a few minutes, I wipe off the excess gel, leaving a consistent, even color.

I can control the amount of stain left on the surface by varying the pressure on the cloth pad. Once I'm finished, I'll let the stain dry for about 24 hours. Now since I'm going to be using this cabinet in the bathroom, where there's going to be moisture and steam, I want to put a good, tough waterproof top coat on here, so I've decided to use a polyurethane spar varnish.

Spar varnish was developed for the marine industry. The other thing I like about this finish too or this top coat is that it's got a very slight yellow or amber color to it and that's going to look very attractive on top of this cherry stain.

This brush is suitable for both oil and latex paints. Important because the top coat I'm using is an oil-based product. The brush tip is nicely shaped and the bristles are securely fastened into the metal ferrell. Once again, I'm pouring the varnish into a plastic container so that I can properly load the brush.

I apply the top coat with long, even strokes, working with the grain whenever possible and finishing off with straight strokes in one direction.
[MUSIC]
After waiting four hours, I sand the now-dry first coat with 220-grit sandpaper. Most urethane varnishes need to be recoated within a 4- to 6-hour window. The sanding smoothes the first coat but also roughens it slightly to give the next coat a better grip.

Next, I remove any sanding dust with a sticky tack cloth and apply a second coat. It's important to control dust as much as possible while the top coat is still wet. Now this is a hardware that was on the piece when I got it and in fact, this is what caused those black marks on the drawer front.

Also, you know, it's just not the look that I really want for a bathroom piece, so I'm going to replace those with some ceramic knobs.