How to Install a Front Door That’s Energy Efficient

RON HAZELTON:
Now our front door doesn't look so bad, but in the summer, it swells to the point where we simply can't use it. And in the winter, it seems to let in everything, especially the cold.

Well, summers' on its way but I'm not gonna give this door a chance to start sticking again. Instead, I'm gonna replace it. Now, I want one that looks traditional but it's energy-efficient. So, let's jump in. My first step is to remove the wood trim that covers and conceals the edges of the frame.

Well, I think that's about all of the exterior trim that I'm going to have to take off. I'm gonna go inside now and start to remove some of the casing.
[MUSIC]
Well, our door is just about ready to come out. What's holding it in place right now are several nails that are driven through the frame and into the framing of the house. I'd say there may be half a dozen or so on each side.

I'm gonna cut through those, using a reciprocating saw and this blade right here is designed to handle nails. [SAWING SOUNDS] With all the nails cut, the doorframe including the side lights comes out in one piece.

Well, I got the old door out, that wasn't so bad. Now I want to prepare this opening for the new door. What's really important here is that the bottom be level and flat and that the opening itself be the correct size for the new door. I check the seal at the bottom and it's dead on level. The opening itself though, is a bit too large, so I add strips of plywood to the sides and top to make it slightly smaller.

To make sure there's a watertight seal around the doorframe, I insert foil tape under the trim above the door, fold it back, and tape it temporarily in place. Next, I apply the adhesive-backed aluminum tape to the sill and run it up the sides a few inches.

I cut the corners and fold the tape over the edge. Then put one final strip of metal tape on the top of the sill. Well, everything's well sealed down here against any kind of water intrusion. Now there are just a couple of things left to do before I actually put the door in.

One is to install this sill support. I've made it up from a piece of oak and a piece of angle iron. Here's how it goes in. I position the sill extension on a couple of wood blocks so I can free up my hands. Then, drive rust-resistant screws through the angle iron and into the framing of the house.

Next, I cover the metal with a strip of cedar trim and nail it in place. Finally, I head out to my truck to pick up my caulking tub. I apply three beads of silicone sealant on top of the sill to make sure no moisture will seep under the bottom of the doorframe.

Well, this is it, one of those moments of truth. Rick, a good friend of mine, has stopped by to give me a hand, setting the door and frame in place. It's heavy, but manageable. Now the trick here is to set the bottom in place without dragging it across the beads of sealant, then tip the door up into position.

Now, I've just put two nails in this door because now I want to go inside and make sure everything is square, plumb and level and if necessary, make a couple of adjustments.

The sides of the doorframe are in fact, plumb or vertical. Now the best way to check for square on an object this large is to measure diagonally from corner to corner and compare the measurements. If they're the same, and in this case, they are, then the frame is indeed square.

Now I also want to check the margin, that is the gap or space between the edge of the door and the doorframe. It should be uniform from the top all the way down to the bottom. In this case, it looks really good. But the ultimate test is, how well does the door open and close? Let's check it out.

Okay, great. So I'm gonna go back outside now and finish nailing it off. This doorframe, unlike its predecessor is held in place by this nailing strip or flange. Galvanized roofing nails are used to secure the flange to the framing of the house. Next, I'll need to make the flanges watertight.

The top one is covered with the metal tape I put in earlier. Then I add strips of aluminum tape over the side flanges as well. Now it's time to set up for a little woodworking.
[MUSIC]
First I cut three trim pieces to cover the nailing flange on the outside. Then I begin cutting miters on the interior casing. You'll notice I filled the space between the doorframe and the rough opening with fiberglass insulation.

Well, that finishes the installation of the door, but you know, the way I see it, what turns a doorway into a welcoming entryway is great hardware. Now, this is a company that makes a really, really nice —

So my wife Lynn and I went on the Internet and started searching.
LYNN:
It really adds, I think that would really —
[BOTH SPEAK AT ONCE]
RON HAZELTON:
We ended up on the Baldwin Brass site, where we found just what we were looking for.
LYNN:
Oh, I like that.

RON HAZELTON:
Well, our hardware has arrived, it looks gorgeous, so I'm gonna go ahead and start installing it.
[MUSIC]
Now our entryway makeover really wouldn't be complete without a little lighting update. A final buffing on the doorknocker, the laying out of the welcome mat, and our front door transformation is finished. Welcome friend, come in and stay a spell.