Ron visited Florida's horse country and the rural town of Alachua where it gets quite cold in the winter. Janet Wooten and Steve Brown asked for a little help replacing their 1884 farmhouse windows that offer little insulation. Ron helped the couple remove the old windows and install a new set that will offer much better insulation while preserving the antique look of their home.
Click Here For a list of what
you will need in order to complete this project.
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Some windows are designed for new construction, but you can also purchase retrofit windows that are designed to replace existing windows. Retrofit windows are much easier to install.
For maximum insulation value, purchase windows with two pieces of glass, called dual glazed windows, with a sealed space filled with argon gas.
Unless you are interested in changing the look of your home, try to match the replacement windows with the windows you are taking out. In a vintage home, you want to avoid installing replacement windows that look new.
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1. Remove old windows
The entire installation process is done from the inside, including removal of the old windows.
Begin by taking out the stop. If you are replacing double-hung windows, which slide up and down in a track, you will also have to remove the track to get the windows out.
Use a utility knife to cut through the caulk and multiple layers of paint where the stop meets the jamb. This will help to avoid damaging the surrounding areas when the stop is removed.
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| Use a wide putty knife and work it in behind the stop by gently tapping it with a hammer. After it is started, use a spoon-shaped pry bar and work it in behind the stop while gently pushing it out. Begin this process at one end and work toward the other.
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You should come across a nail about every six to eight inches. Get as close as possible to the nail as you gently pry. Remove the stop in one piece whenever possible.
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| Once the window is loose, cut the sash cords, which are the ropes that go up inside the frame. There are weights on the end of each cord. Since you won't need the sash cords for the new windows, you can snip each cord and allow it to drop back inside the wall. |
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| After cutting the sash cords and removing the bottom windows, use a pair of vice grips to pull the piece of wood, called a parting strip, from the groove in which it sits.
Once the end is clear, insert a flat bar behind the strip and pry it out. |
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2. Prep for installation
Even when new windows have been special ordered from the manufacturer, it is still a good idea to do a test fit.
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| After ensuring that the windows fit well, run a thick bead of paintable silicone caulk across the sill to provide a seal at the bottom of the window. Also lay a bead of caulk down each side of the opening and along the top. |
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3. Install new windows
Set the bottom edge of the window onto the sill and then tip it up into the opening. Press the window against the rear stop so that it comes firmly into contact with the sealant.
The window is held in place with four screws that are driven in through pre-drilled holes. There are two on each side.
Place shims between the window and the opening so that the window is held in place in a plumb and level position and does not get pulled out of position when each screw is driven in. |
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| Double check for level and plumb after each screw is driven in to make sure that nothing has shifted. Also, make sure that each window works properly before installing them completely.
To avoid losing heat or having cold air come in around the edge of the windows, stuff insulation into the cracks between the edge of the frame and the old jamb. |
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4. Trim and gaps
You can reuse the old trim if you were able to remove it without damaging it. Attach the trim with a pneumatic nail gun called a pin nailer.
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| If there are any small gaps after the trim is replaced, use a material called backer rod, which is often used behind caulk for wide gaps. Press the backer rod into the gap and then cut off the end. |
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| Use a miter saw to cut thin strips of flat molding to conceal the gap between the new window frame and the old sill.
Next, cut 45-degree miters on strips of shoe molding and set them in place to conceal any gaps that remain between the trim and the window frame.
Finally, fill any remaining small gaps and cracks with paintable caulk.
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5. Paint prep
It is debatable whether it is better to paint first and then scrape off the excess or to go to the trouble of masking off the glass first. Masking is probably a bit faster and eliminates the risk of scratching the new glass with a sharp blade.
To mask the window, use masking paper with an adhesive along one edge.
Begin by putting a strip along the edge of the windowpane. Bring the masking paper to the edge of the wood strips separating the glass panes (called mullions) and then use a putty knife to tear it off a little short at each end. Repeat on the opposite side.
Next, overlap a strip across the top and tear off the excess where the paper meets the mullion. Apply strips of masking tape to the tracks to keep them free of paint. |
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6. Paint
Begin painting at the top and work downwards to avoid dripping onto your finished work.
After the paint dries, but before removing the masking paper, use a utility knife to carefully cut along the edge. This will guarantee a crisp clean line when the paper is pulled away. |
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