How to Design and Build an Attached Pergola

Ron begins this HouseCalls episode in Vorhees, New Jersey where Joanne and Dennis Cuderyo have a beautifully landscaped, but overly sunny backyard. It was difficult to enjoy their patio in the summertime because of the afternoon sunshine that beat down on the area.

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The solution was to build a European style pergola, which is a large arbor with trellised beams on which vines or climbing plants can be grown. Ron showed the Cuderyos the design he had in mind, and they got started.

1. Begin with a drawing or a plan:

• Ron showed the Cuderyos a drawing of the pergola they were going to build. This structure would be supported by a ledger, which would be attached to the side of the house, and two vertical posts at either corner of the patio.
• The ledger was the first piece installed. Since the pergola should be about the same size as the patio it is designed to cover, they started at the edges of the patio and drew vertical lines up the side of the house. They measured between these lines to calculate the length of the ledger and then cut the lumber to length.

2. Install the ledger:

• The six beams that would run out toward the patio needed to somehow be attached to the ledger. The two end beams would be easy but the other four needed to be attached in the center. Ron did not like the look of metal brackets and was afraid that toe nailing them in would not be strong enough. The solution was to cut four notches into the ledger then cut notches on the end of each beam, which would slip into the ledger providing the support for the beams.
• They measured and marked the depth of the notch first, then used a combination square and scrap piece of wood to mark the width.

• Using a jig saw, Joanne cut out the four required notches.

• After first drilling pilot holes, they attached the ledger to the side of the house with lag screws. A general rule is that the lag screw needs to be long enough to go through the ledger and siding (or stucco) and at least 2" into the framing.

3. Install the posts:

• With the ledger in place the construction team moved on to installing the two posts that would support the other end of the structure. The bottoms of these posts would be held in place by post brackets, which needed to be attached to the concrete patio.

• Boring into concrete requires a carbide tip masonry bit which can be used in any power drill, but Ron set Joanne to work with a hammer drill, which is a power drill that pounds as it rotates, eating through concrete at a much faster rate.
• They set the post bracket in place and then dropped an expansion anchor into the hole. As the nut is tightened with a socket wrench, the bottom of the anchor draws up and flares out, jamming itself inside the hole.

• Next, they installed a metal post support to prevent the end of the post from coming into contact with the concrete, which could eventually cause rotting.

• Dennis secured the bracket to the post with 1 ½" 10d, heavy, galvanized nails while Ron checked to make sure that the post remained plumb. To keep the post vertical in both directions, they pounded in stakes then attached temporary braces between the post and the stake with screws.

4. Install end beams:

• With the posts secure, the next job was to install the two end beams. Before attaching these two beams, they needed to be notched exactly like the ledger. To attach the beams to the posts, Ron and company used two tools; a cordless drill with a countersink drill bit and a second cordless drill with a screwdriver bit holder. The second drill was equipped with a square bit to match the square driver hole at the end of the stainless steel screws Ron selected. Stainless steel screws are non-corrosive so they are a great choice for outdoor projects.

• When installing the inside end beam, they dropped a short piece of wood into the notches of both beams to make sure that they were properly aligned. Then they checked the bottom edge of the beam for the line they had marked. When everything was in place, they applied a temporary clamp.
• They attached the second beam the same way they did the first.

• This pergola is designed with three layers of beams. The first layer consists of the ledger and the end beam. On top of those are placed five additional beams that extend out from the house.

• And finally, on top of those, are eight more beams that run parallel to the house.

5. Design and cut decorative ends:

• Joanne wanted the second and third-tier beams to have decorative, curved ends. She sketched a design onto a piece of scrap wood, cut it out with the jig saw, and sanded the edges smooth. Joanne then used this piece as a pattern or template to trace exactly the same shape on the end of each beam.

6. Final assembly:

• Dennis and Ron cut the numerous notches that would allow the beams to interlock with one another. Finally, it was time for the assembly. Since they measured and marked very carefully, the layered, interlocking beams all fit together like the pieces of a giant puzzle.