When outdoor cooking and entertaining are two favorite pastimes, there is nothing like an outdoor kitchen to bring it all together. Ron visits the Los Altos home of Tom Urban and Rebecca Sweet to help them bring a little gourmet to their backyard.
Click Here
For a list of what you will need in order to complete
this project.
Click here
to view a full video of this segment.
|
|
| |
|
1. Select location
A preexisting patio area, when available, is the perfect spot for a backyard kitchen installation.
The kitchen design includes a counter with a tile countertop, and built in compartments for a mini-refrigerator, a rinsing sink and a gas grill. |
 |
| |
|
| Note: The necessary plumbing, electrical wiring and gas lines are outside the scope of the following overview. |
| |
|
2. Create platform
Begin by staking out the boundaries of the kitchen counter. All the components of the outdoor kitchen will be built on top of a wooden platform. The first step is to build a joist assembly, which will serve as the base for the platform.
After measuring and cutting the 2 X 6s, assemble the joists to form a single unit, using a butane-powered nail gun. Since the joists will be in contact with the ground, use pressure treated lumber that resists rotting.
Once assembled, set the joist assembly into place and check for level.
If there are any obstructions (for example if the plumbing is underneath the platform) you will need to take measurements to the center of each pipe and then use a drill outfitted with a spade bit to bore each pipe hole into the 3/4 plywood that has been cut to set on top of the joist assembly. |
 |
| |
|
3. Attach plywood
Drive rustproof galvanized deck screws through the plywood to attach it securely to the joists. The outdoor grill component is insulated and very heavy so all of this weight needs to be supported.
A smaller raised platform made up of four small frames supporting a second piece of plywood is needed to raise the grill to the proper height. |
 |
| |
|
The four supports are created by nailing 2 X 4s together with simple butt joints.
Align the plywood flush with the edge of the two outside support frames and then use a screw gun to attach the plywood to all four support frames, beginning with the outside. |
 |
| |
|
4. Wall frames
The platform is not yet attached permanently but you will need to set it in place along with the grill base so that you can take measurements to determine that the countertop will be level with the cook top.
|
 |
| |
|
| This measurement will determine the height dimension for building the wall frames. |
 |
| |
|
|
A pair of interior frames built from 2 x 4s is installed on either side of the grill platform to create a separate compartment for the gas grill.
After cutting the 2 X 4s according to measurements, use a nail gun to assemble the wall frames. After each frame is fully assembled, once again use the nail gun to attach the rear wall frame to the platform by driving nails through the bottom plate and into the base framing. |
 |
| |
|
The second wall is assembled and attached the same way.
Once both rear wall frames are attached, the platform for the grill can be secured in place with a nail gun. |
 |
| |
|
5. Siding
Finish-grade plywood sheathing is attached to the frames to complete the outer part of the new kitchen.
6. Countertop
Cut a sheet of exterior grade, 3/4-inch plywood to size. This will serve as an underlayment or substrate for the tile countertop. Attach the plywood with screws driving the heads just below the surface. |
 |
| |
|
7. Sink placement
Most sinks come with a cardboard template to indicate the exact size and shape that the sink opening needs to be. Before tracing and cutting the opening in the plywood, first lay the tiles out to ensure that there is not a small sliver of tile next to the sink on one side or the other.
Move the sink template to a point where there is an equal piece of tile on either side. The sink is generally centered from front to back, but you should also avoid odd tile shapes in this position as well. |
 |
| |
|
| Trace the sink template onto the plywood and then use a hole saw to bore holes at each corner. Cut out the opening with a jigsaw. |
 |
| |
|
8. Backer board
Before laying down the tile, measure and put down a layer of waterproof cement backer board, which is designed to go behind or under tile.
The board has a cement core, and is covered on each side with a nylon mesh, and then another thin layer of cement.
Draw a pencil line where you intend to make the cut and then use some kind of a straightedge as a guide. Pass the scoring tool, which has a sharp carbide tip on each end, over the material four or five times, each time cutting a little deeper into the board.
|
 |
| |
|
| Once the mesh has been cut through on one side and the board has been scored, it will easily break along the scored line.
To break the board, align the score with the work surface edge to make a clean break. The mesh will still be attached on the opposite side and will also need to be cut. After detaching the cut piece of board, position the backer board on the counter.
To cut the sink opening, trace the opening that was previously cut in the plywood onto the backer board from underneath.
|
 |
| |
|
| To cut the sink opening in the backer board, again score along the cut line, then after flipping the board over and lightly scoring the other side, use hammers to gently tap out the scored portion.
Measure and draw gridlines at 8-inch intervals on the backer board.
|
 |
