In this HouseCalls project, Ron replaces a pedestal sink with an oak vanity created from a genuine antique piece of furniture. To make it appropriate for bathroom use, the top of the vanity is covered with a custom fabricated marble or granite-like countertop with a cutout for the new sink.
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For a list of what you will need in order to complete
this project.
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1. Select furniture piece
When selecting an antique, it is important to keep in mind that the sink bowl and plumbing will have to extend down into the interior of the furniture. Selecting a piece with a deep top drawer that goes across the top front will minimize the amount of reconstructive work necessary.
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2. Create countertop template
A custom countertop will need to be added to the vanity. The countertop will need to be shaped and cut to fit exactly on top of the washstand. The fabricator will need to follow a template, which will be different for each piece of furniture, each sink and each bathroom.
To create this template, flip the vanity over and trace the top of the cabinet onto a large piece of paper. You may want to add ¼ inch to the outside edge to add an interesting detail. It is important to indicate on the drawing the location of any structural details of the furniture. If there is a front drawer, for example, the drawing will need to show the location of the drawer when it is closed so that the sink clears the drawer. Support rails also need to be noted.
The countertop needs to be about 3 inches deeper in the rear than the cabinet so that the vanity can sit back slightly from the wall allowing room for plumbing attachments. This also needs to be noted on the template.
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| Cut out the template provided by the sink company and trace it onto the countertop template. The sink template should consist of two lines. The outside line indicates the lip of the sink while the inside line shows the shape and size of the hole needed for the sink.
After tracing the sink opening onto the countertop template, cut out the sink opening and then place the new template directly on top of the wash stand, tape it in place and trace the sink opening onto the antique.
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3. Cut sink hole
To cut the hole for the sink into the top of the vanity, begin by boring two starter holes. Set the jigsaw blade into position and start the cut being very careful to avoid any of the vanity structure below. If there is a support along the backside of the vanity, do not cut through it. Use a handsaw to finish if necessary. |
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4. Test fit sink installation Attach the drain fittings to the bottom of the sink to get an idea of how much of the interior structure of the vanity will need to be removed. It is easier to attach all of the plumbing fittings and fixtures before installing the sink. Use 2 X 4s to represent the thickness of the new countertop, and then do a test fit to determine where to create the opening for the drain to pass through the back of the vanity. It is a good idea to have extra room around the drainpipe so choose a hole saw that is larger than the opening needed. For more tips on using hole saws, see Ron's Tips and Techniques section.
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5. Modifications
If the antique has a front drawer then it will need to be modified to allow for the sink bowl and drainpipe hanging down. To do this, transfer the shape of the sink bowl onto the back of the drawer and cut it out with the jigsaw.
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| You may also need to create a clearance slot for the drainpipe onto the drawer bottom. Make any other modifications necessary, while preserving the structural integrity of the piece.
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6. Add 3" wood strips
The new countertop will be three inches deeper than the vanity. To make the wash stand depth the same as the countertop, attach two matching 3" wood strips to the rear edge of each side. Attach the strips with wood adhesive, clamp into place to allow the glue to dry and then attach with long countersunk screws.
Transfer the location of the water supply lines to the back of the cabinet and create the appropriate holes.
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| TIP: If the supply pipes are set at an angle, try this tip for marking the location. Apply lipstick to the ends of two wooden dowels, then place the dowels into the pipes and put the cabinet in place. Pull the dowels out until they touch the cabinet transferring the lipstick mark to the exact locations where you need to drill the holes. |
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7. Attach cabinet to wall
Use L-brackets to attach the back of the cabinet to the wall. Use the appropriate drill and anchors to attach the L-bracket to the wall with screws. After drilling pilot holes into the cabinet, insert screws through the brackets and secure the vanity in place.
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8. Attach countertop
Apply the manufacturers recommended adhesive for the countertop material selected. Apply about five dots of adhesive to the existing vanity top. If you apply too much adhesive, the top will be very difficult to remove if you ever need to take it off.
Carefully set the new countertop in place on top of the adhesive and slide it around a bit to distribute the adhesive and make sure it is properly aligned. |
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9. Install sink
Flip the new sink over and carefully place a bead of sealant around the edge of the lip. Then carefully lower the sink into place.
Dip your fingers in a solution of warm water and a small amount of liquid dishwashing detergent to make them slippery. Smooth the sealant around the edge of the sink with a fingertip and then wipe away any excess material.
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| Finally, install a new p-trap and hook up the water supply lines and the conversion is complete. |
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Before After
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